New members – Kilkenny, Waterford (twice)

Eoin Jenkinson, Rive Gauche, Kilkenny

Eoin is a chef and baker in this small restaurant in Kilkenny.

Some interesting details and background from Eoin:

I live to bake not bake to live :). I bake a few different varieties of bread including sourdough curry yeast , brown butter batch rolls and brioche, all of which go through a 48h proving. My signature bread recipe is our traditional brown soda bread without the soda which I call Irish Sour and have replaced the soda with ‘’an laibhín’’ in order to make it real bread. I also love incorporating my bread into desserts, brown bread parfait, sourdough biscuits and oat and seed crackers are among a bakers dozens of examples.

I can proudly say that baking runs in my blood as my grandfather and father were bakers. Their bakery was called ‘The Old Mill’ and it was located in Skerries, Co. Dublin where I am originally from. It was a very unique place back then as it had a two working mills attached to it and this is where the bread making journey was starting to be distributed to our local shops. I was going there myself as a child and I can still remember the smell of the freshly baked goods which as you know is an unforgettable experience. I was 5 at the time and I believe this is when my love for baking began.

Unfortunately in 1987 my family bakery burned down and my father decided to sell it to the local council. It was a significant and traumatic event in my life as to me it meant the end of my family tradition, however as I later discovered not the end of my passion for food and baking. After finishing school I decided to go travelling to discover and learn more about different foods and educate my palate. This was an amazing journey helping me to develop my passion for food and directed me to find the path to become the baker I am now.

I am currently a baker and pastry chef at Rive Gauche, Kilkenny and product developer at Kells Wholemeal, Bennettsbridge, Kilkenny. I am also researching and developing different varieties of breads, improving my baking techniques and educating my customers on the advantages of eating real breads. My ambition is to become one of the experts in real bread making, share my passion and knowledge and together with like minded Irish bakers bring this nearly forgotten method of authentic bread making back to life again.

Rive Gauche website

Eoin’s Twitter account

Source Restaurant, Tramore, Co Waterford

While Source do some real bread baking in house most of the time you will be having real bread from the oven of member Sarah Richards.

Source website

Source Twitter

Ardkeen Quality Food Store, Waterford

Great to have this store and their baker Ceara Dennison on board. They are specialists in Ireland’s artisan & locally produced foods and in existence for nearly 50 years.

From them:

Every morning Ceara will bake off our Classic Mixed Grain Sourdough using natural levain, our Honey and Walnut loaf sweetened with organic Irish honey, 2 types of focaccia using fresh herbs and of course our ever changing Bakers Choice which ranges from a Chocolate Rye Bread to our delicious Hokkaido Milk Loaf (It’s better than Brioche!)

Classic Sourdough:

Organic Wheat flour, Rye flour, Wholewheat flour, Sourdough culture, salt and water

Walnut and Honey loaf:

Wholewheat flour, Wheat flour, Walnuts, Irish Honey, Water, Salt

Hokkaido Milk Loaf

Wheat flour, Milk, Eggs, Sugar, Butter, Water, Salt

More on Ceara:

Ceara studied locally, in the Waterford Institute of Technology in Culinary Arts Department, she gained a Scholarship to Johnson and Wales University U.S.A for a Degree in Baking and Pastry. That experience gave her a love of everything Bread! As she worked as a Pastry Chef through the years, she played around with Breads in work and her own time, following the likes of Richard Bertinet and Justin Gellatly. She is also a member of Breadshare, who’s initiative to use Organic, Local ingredients and focusing on sharing the produce and the consumption of a more sustainable bread is of great interest to Ceara.

Ardkeen also stock real breads from members Arbutus and the Spelt Baker.

Ardkeen website

Ardkeen Twitter

Thats it, welcome to Eoin and Source and Ardkeen 🙂

Couple more on way soon.

/Keith

Wheat To Eat In Cappoquin – guest post by Joe Barron, Barron’s Bakery

 

Protein content of Irish grown wheat

Wheat grown in Ireland is suitable for milling into flour for baking soda bread. Due to the protein content of Irish grown wheat and the Irish climate, the flour is not suitable for baking yeast bread.

However in recent years a biodynamic(type of organic) grain has been bred in Switzerland for climates and soils found in Ireland. A biodynamic farmer in Co Wicklow has grown this wheat successfully for the last few years.

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Last year we got some of this flour and it baked beautiful brown yeast bread. The next obvious step was to grow some of this wheat in Cappoquin and let the Cappoquin Bakery bake Cappoquin bread!

Aszita is a biodynamic variety

This variety of wheat called Aszita is a biodynamic variety. In short, biodynamic agriculture and gardening is the oldest type of organic agriculture. It was founded by Dr Rudolf Steiner in Germany in the 1920s. One of the purposes of this type of agriculture is to produce food to best nourish the entire human being.

Biodynamic agriculture is practiced throughout the world and in recent years it has become very popular with wine growers because of the high quality wine that it produces. We have been gardening with these principles for many years and were excited and confident about growing this wheat.

This is a winter wheat variety and so ideally it should be sown in September/October, but the excessively wet conditions in 2012 meant that the ground could not be ploughed and tilled until the end of February and the crop was sown in early March. But after that, the weather could not have been more accommodating. After sowing, the weather got cold, the ideal replication of winter conditions for the wheat and the fantastic growing season after that was a great bonus.

Biodynamic agriculture, like organic agriculture, does not use any weedkillers, pesticides or fungicides. After sowing we spray a preparation based on cow manure to enhance root development and later in the growing season, a preparation based on silica is sprayed to enhance the effect of the sunlight. An organic form of potash was applied in early May and in July we sprayed nettle tea to deal with aphids.

Albion Mower Reaper

As the site was unsuitable for a combine, the crop was cut on 9th August with a 1913 Albion Mower Reaper, complete with table for cutting corn and pulled by a Massey Ferguson 35 (1962). Before combines, the crop was cut with a Reaper and Binder and the sheaves that it produced were gathered into stooks. In turn the stooks were piled into a larger heap called a stack in order to let the grain dry out. These were gathered into a barn or rick near the farm yard.

After a month or more of drying , the wheat was thrashed with a Threshing machine. For this small crop, a Barn Thresher – W Doyle, Wexford (1880) was used. Originally this was operated by four horses but has been converted to a tractor pto. The wheat was cleaned by a Perrott Winnowing machine – C Hive Iron Works, Cork (1880). This threshing took place on Larry Hallahans farm with the kind use of his premises and vintage machinery.

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In times past the harvest and threshing was a major farm event and all the local farmers helped each other out using the “meitheal” approach. This spirit was still alive on 19 0ctober at Larry’s farm for this event, with a large turnout of local people and even the age old tradition of bringing refreshments out to the workers happened also!

The following figures are an analysis of this wheat –

  • Protein 12.6,
  • Moisture 18,
  • Starch DM 68.1,
  • KPH 77,
  • Zelany 36.8

Ballyminane Mills in Co Wexford

At this stage of the project, the farmer’s work is complete. Before a baker can bake bread, the grain has to be milled. We got it milled at Uncle Aidan’s , Ballyminane Mills in Co Wexford. This mill has been powered for nearly 200 years with water from a mill race. The French Burr milling stones do not overheat, thus retaining all the nutritional values of the wheat. Seeing this type of mill in action was a wonderful experience.

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After all the work of growing and milling the grain, what quality flour did we end up with?

The miller had told us that in his opinion it was good quality flour and he proved to be right. The bread baked very well and the nutty, wholesome flavour of the bread was absolutely delicious.

This has been a most interesting and informative project for us. We wish to thank the following people for making it all happen : Charles Keane for providing the plot of land to grow the wheat, Blakeney Massey for his experience and crop management skills, Larry and Paul Hallahan and family members for the use of his machinery and helping hands, Noel Looby for his advice and Micheal Miklis for his advice and experience with these grains.

The taste of this bread is unique and superb

Finally, what was the point of all this effort? We are very well satisfied with our project. It is possible to grow wheat in Ireland that is fit to bake yeast bread when you use this biodynamic Aszita wheat variety. The taste of this bread is unique and superb and it is also highly nutritious.

We ended up growing, harvesting and milling the wheat using old time techniques , meaning the involvement of many people . In former times, there would have been a local mill, so everything from growing the wheat to baking the bread would have been carried out locally. That is a local economy working very successfully for the economic and social benefit of the local people.

Joe Barron, Barron’s Bakery

Dublin and Waterford both gain a new RBI member #realbreadireland

L’Ecrivain Restaurant

Thanks to Tom Doyle who is the head chef here for putting in the membership application.   I had the pleasure of meeting Derry Clarke, whose restaurant this is during Theatre of Food 2014 so great to see this come in.

They regularly bake real bread sourdoughs to serve with their dishes and join the growing number of Irish restaurants who either bake real bread themselves or buy in from one of our members.

Website: http://lecrivain.com

Twitter: https://twitter.com/lecrivaindublin & https://twitter.com/Doylechef

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/lEcrivain.Restaurant

Olive Tree Tapas, Waterford

Further south this restaurant opened in Waterford in 2014 and their tapas theme is complimented by in-house real bread baking.

From Darren Collins, Head Chef : “We make sourdough numerous flavours. Yeast crackers Yeast loafs and Bruchetta.”

Apart from their bread “Curing meats, all own chutney ,pickles fermenting, smoking . Pastrys +bread all made in house. Anything we can make we will. Suppliers from organic farmers, local and then Redmonds and La Rousse.”

Website: http://olivetreewaterford.ie

Twitter: https://twitter.com/the_olive_tree & https://twitter.com/OliveTreeChef

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/theolivetreetapas/

/Keith

 

Latest members are in Waterford, Sligo and Kerry

Jeni Pim, Jens Kitchen

Jeni and her husband bake bread at home and supply direct to consumers. From Jeni:

From Sourdough to Brown Yeast Bread: you name it, we bake it.  Nigel trained with Richard Bertinet in Bath, a renowned real bread advocat, and I myself, Jen, trained with the Ballymaloe Cookery school, completing my 12 week course in January 2015. We specialise in individual orders, supplying families who want to feed their families REAL bread.

Her website is here

Dervla James, Pudding Row Cafe & Bakery, Sligo

Dervla is our 4th member in Sligo :-).

We make and bake everything very early, every morning in our lovely little seaside village of Easkey, in West Sligo. We bake crunchy white yeasted loaves, seeded bagels, herby focaccia, brioche, sweet breads and more.

We add or replace breads given the season too. We use fresh yeast and plan to make sourdough breads and pizzas soon. We’re just opened 3 short months, our production is high as we use in house and sell from our big bread shelf too.

I have a BSc in baking and pastry art from the national baking school (formerly Kevin Street, DIT Dublin). 

We sell to our customers from a beautiful wooden bread shelf custom made by two wonderful local craftsmen. We use all organic herbs in our breads, you can smell and taste the difference.

We will begin baking classes in the next few weeks and hope to share our breadmaking skills to the Sligo (and wider) community. Bread and pastry are at the forefront of everything we do here. 

Dervla Website

Dervla Facebook

Orla Gowen, Bácús Bhréanainn, Cloghane

Orla runs Bácús which a scratch bakery on the Dingle Peninsula specialising in Irish and European artisan breads that are finished by hand and baked in our stone-floored deck ovens. We deliver to many of the finest restaurants and shops on the Dingle Peninsula and are stall holders at the Tralee and Dingle Farmers Markets.

I am predominately a scratch bread maker with a limited selection of confectionary. I am listed in McKenna’s Guide. I have recently attended the School of Artisan Food to do a sourdough baking course and I am gradually introducing sourdough bread to my range.

Orla’s Website

Welcome to the 3 of you 🙂

/keith

Five new members here – The Happy Pear, Greystones; Deasy’s Restaurant, Clonakilty; Le Fournil, Sligo; Sunflower Bakery, Clare and The Larder, Waterford

The Happy Pear, Greystones

Known to many of you as a hotbed of vegetarian and healthy food The Happy Pear also throw shapes at Real Bread.

“We make a delicious wholemeal spelt bread, it is a great staple. 

It contains 500g wholegrain spelt flour, 1.2 teaspoon of salt, 1 teaspoon of dried yeast, 1 teaspoon of honey, 400ml of warm water, and 1 tablespoon of olive oil.”

Their website: https://thehappypear.ie

 

Deasy’s Restaurant, Clonakilty

Caitlin Ruth is responsible for the bread (and much besides) in this well known restaurant in Cork. In her own words

“At the moment, I am making for service:
-semi sourdough with fresh yeast and a semolina sourdough starter, olive oil, salt, honey, semolina and white flour.
-100% sourdough with kamut, whole millet and buckwheat, raisins, honey, brown and white flour, olive oil and salt.” 

Their Facebook page – Deasy’s Restaurant

Le Fournil, Sligo

Le Fournil in Sligo is run by Clotilde Rambaud, a native of Nantes, south of Brittany, who came to Sligo eight years ago. “We use real ingredients. No additives. It’s not organic but it’s natural”

“All breads are sourdough based, using poolish as a starter. we have multi grain bread, brown country style, traditional white french bread, baguettes, savoury breads, rye and spelt breads” 

Their Facebook Page: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Le-Fournil-Sligo/462447683784376

Sunflower Bakery, Clare

They have been around at least 4 years and is run by Pat McManus and Vi Russell. Pat is the baker 🙂

These are their real breads right now

  • Sourdough Rye
  • Sourdough Granary
  • Multi seed
  • Wholemeal Spelt
  • White Farmhouse
  • Walnut and Cinnamon Stick
  • Foccacia

Their Facebook Page: https://www.facebook.com/sunflowerbakeryclare

The Larder, Waterford

The first retail member in RBI. We will keep adding categories when they appear to make sense :-).

Patrick stocks both Spelt Baker and Seagull Bakery breads in his shop on the Quay.

His Facebook Page: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Larder/535249846592079

That’s it for this update, great to have the 5 of ye on boards 🙂

/ Keith

 

Welcome to Nude Food, Dungarvan, Camerino Bakery, Dublin & Matilda’s Bakery, Monaghan

We’ve had a backlog build up so its 3 for 1 today.

Nude Food, Dungarvan

Louise Clark of Nude Food is our first member in the category of restaurants and cafes who bake their own real bread. As it turns out she also sells some in the shop at the front of Nude Food.

Check out the Nude Food website and their Facebook page.

Nude Food

 

Camerino Bakery, 158 Capel St, Dublin

We bake our own Challah Bread and Focaccia daily for our sandwiches and to order.  Caryna does a number of markets in and around Dublin. You can see full details on her website or her Facebook page.

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Matildas Bakery & Delicatessen, Carrickmacross, Co. Monaghan

This third generation shop is run by Annmarie Ward. In her own words

“I run an artisan bakery in Carrickmacross, Co. Monaghan. I am the third generation to occupy the premises I operate from, it previously being a butcher shop with my grandfather and father. I have a fully functioning and licensed on site bakery where I produce a large range of cakes, pastries and sourdough breads. I try to use the best quality ingredients in my products at all times and use alot of Irish organic rye and spelt flour.”

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Her Facebook page is here.

Great to have those 3 with us in the network. If you want to join just click this link.

/Keith

Great to have Esther and Joe Barron, Barron’s Bakery, Cappoquin join us :-)

There is a wonderful mixture of new and old bakery’s on board now and we should have a couple more of the newer ones with us shortly.

But this post is to welcome Esther and Joe Barron who are based down in Cappoquin. The bakery was founded in 1887 and they have the distinction of using the oldest working bread oven in the country.

They have a wide range of breads of which their Rye sourdough, Wheat sourdough, country style and spelt are all real breads. The sourdoughs feature in the photos below. I have also included a video which I shot in 2011 when I visited as part of the West Waterford Festival of Food.

Details of their bakery, their coffee shop and their book are all on their website here.

Welcome to Sarah Richards, Seagull Bakery. Tramore

Sarah recently started her bakery in the seaside town of Tramore in Waterford.

She has an extensive list of real breads:

  • White Sourdough
  • Wholemeal sourdough
  • Rye and wheat sourdough
  • 100% Rye sourdough
  • Borodinsky (100% Rye)
  • Focaccia ( various toppings)
  • Baguettes( made with sourdough levain and a poolish )
  • Sourdough cinnamon buns.
  • Brown yeast bread

and a couple of great breads that don’t fall within the definition

  • Multicereal ( soon to be a sourdough real bread..)
  • White soda

Her breads are able from her online and also by calling to her bakery on a Friday – give her a call on 087 9210534. Her stockists in Waterford right now are:

Larder 111 Henrietta Street, Waterford City
Coastguard Cultural Centre, Tramore, Co Waterford
Momos restaurant Waterford City
Faithlegg House hotel
Loko Restaurant. unit 1. ardkeen shopping centre. dunmore road. waterford city. ireland.

Sarah is doing a Real Bread Ireland demo with Patrick from Firehouse Bakery on the Sunday of West Waterford Festival of Food in Dungarvan. We’ll have details of that soon.

www.seagullbakery.ie